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Twig delivery
Location: Cusco
Date: January 01
At the start of every year, the elders of
each community in the area (the yayas) come together to
designate the candidates who are to become the highest
authorities of their villages: the Varayocs. In a festival
that features gallons of chicha (maize beer) and llonque
(sugarcane alcohol), the mayor or Varayoc receives the
scepter or vara that symbolizes his power. This pre-Hispanic
custom has been glossed over with Occidental formalities.
The varas are crafted from local wood
varieties such as chonta palm, black hualtaco, huallacán or
membrillo, measure around a meter in length and are inlaid
with gold and silver (Cusco's Town Hall features a small
museum that exhibits some superb examples). When a Varayoc
steps down from his post, he ceases to hold any post in his
community ever again, and becomes one of the venerable
elders. |
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Chiaraje Ritual Battle
Location: Canas
(Cusco)
Date: January 20 gThe
tradition of staging ritual battles to ensure the fertility
of the land lives on in a remote part of the department of
Cusco. The Pampa del Chiaraje, at an altitude of 4,700
meters above sea level, in the province of Canas, can be
reached by a paved road from the old Inca capital and then
via a dirt road. Here, every year the peaceful villagers of
Checcas, Langui and Layo stage an impressive battle.
Armed with hardened lambswool slings,
leather whips and waistcoats decorated with flowers, young
warriors taunt each other in the mist or amidst pelting
hailstorms. This is pucllay, or war games, where the name of
the game is to control as much territory as possible and
force the enemy to retreat. |
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Celebration of the Peruvian Sailor
Location: Trujillo (La Libertad)
Date: January 20
The marinera is one of the most elegant
dances in Peru. The dance involves a great deal of flirting
between a couple, who each twitch a handkerchief in their
right hand, while keeping the beat during what is fairly
complex choreography.
Dance steps, characteristic of the marinera include the
coqueteo (with the couple dancing very closely together) and
the skillful cepillado footwork (literally "brushing"). The
daring marinera, danced in the department of La Libertad,
features the man wearing a wide-brimmed hat and poncho and
the lady dressed in an intricate Moche lace dress.
From January 20-30, the Gran Chimú stadium
in the city of Trujillo holds the country's most important
marinera festival. This competition, that draws couples from
all over the country, is organized by the Club Libertad.
During the festival, the city also hosts processions
involving floats, and the whole town takes on a festive air.
The people of Trujillo gather at the main square to dance
and celebrate. |
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Virgin of the Candelas
Location:
Puno
Date: February 1-14
For 18 days, the highland town of Puno,
nestled on the shores of Lake Titicaca at an altitude of
3,870 meters above sea level, is becomes the Folk Capital of
the Americas. The festival gathers more than 200 groups of
musicians and dancers to celebrate the Mamacha Candelaria.
For the first nine days, the mayordomos (those in charge of
organizing the festivities), decorate the church and pay for
Mass, banquets and fireworks displays.
On the main day, February 2, the virgin is led through the
city in a colorful procession comprising priests, altar
boys, the faithful, Christians and pagans carefully
maintaining the hierarchy. This is the moment when the
troupes of musicians and dancers take the scene, performing
and dancing throughout the city. The festival is linked to
the pre-Hispanic agricultural cycles of sowing and
harvesting, as well as mining activities in the region. It
is the result of a blend of respectful Aymara gaiety and
ancestral Quechua seriousness.
The dance of the demons, or diablada, the
main dance of the festival, was allegedly dreamed up by a
group of miners trapped down a mine who, in their
desperation, resigned their souls to the Virgen de la
Candelaria. The dancers, blowing zampoña pan-pipes and clad
in spectacular costumes and outlandish masks, make their
offerings to the earth goddess Pachamama. The most
impressive masks, for their terrifying aspect, are those of
the deer fitted with long twisted horns similar to the
Devil, and Jacancho, the god of minerals.
During the farewell, or cacharpari, the dancers who fill the
streets finally head to the cemetery to render homage to the
dead. |
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Carnivals
Location: All over Peru.
Date: 2nd half of February-1st week of March
Peruvian carnivals are marked by the
festive character of Andean areas, which regularly break
with their solemn traditions. Beyond regional variations, a
common characteristic of nearly the entire highland chain is
the ritual of the yunza, called umisha in the jungle and
cortamonte on the coast. It involves artificially planting a
tree trunk laden with gifts, around which the guests dance
until it is chopped with a machete or an ax.
The couple who make the final hack that brings down the tree
will then both be in charge of organizing the yunza next
year. Peruvians across the country are extremely fond of
tossing buckets of water at each other during this festival,
so onlookers would be wise to take precautions. Cities where
carnivals reach a high point include Cajamarca and Puno. |
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Lunahuana Adventure Sports Week
Location: Cañete (Lima)
Date: (March) 1st week
The pleasant valley of Lunahuaná, a
paradise for adventure sports lovers, is just half an hour
from San Vicente de Cañete, a town 150 km south of Lima.
The main attraction is the fast-running
Cañete River, which features rapids up to Class IV. Each
year, the valley hosts a festival involving rafting,
parasailing, trekking, gliding, mountain biking and fishing
competitions.
A visit to Lunahuaná is a first-rate excuse to take in the
nearby archaeological site of Incahuasi and the hanging
bridge of Catapalla. Other attractions include wine-tasting
at local vineyards and the exotic regional cuisine, such as
conejos a la carapulcra (spicy jugged hare) and cuy al vino
(guinea pig braised in wine) . |
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La Vendimia Wine Festival
Location : Ica
Date : March (2nd week)
This festival is a celebration of the
abundance of grapes and wine in the region of Ica (a
four-hour drive south of Lima), where persevering efforts in
local vineyards have spread greenery across vast tracts of
once bone-dry desert.
The Wine Festival (Festival de la Vendimia)
involves fairs, competitions, processions of floats, musical
festivals and parties where guests dance the Afro-Peruvian
festejo.
One of the major attractions of the event is the Queen of
the Wine Festival beauty pageant. Accompanied by her
hand-maidens, the beauty queen treads grapes in a vat in the
time-honored tradition to extract the juice that will
eventually be fermented. Apart from the delicious local
sweets known as tejas, made from pecans or candied fruits,
filled with caramel and covered with sugar icing, those
attending the event can try pisco, the aromatic and tasty
grape brandy that originated in this part of southern Peru
four centuries ago. |
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Crossings of Porcon
Location: Porcón (Cajamarca)
Date: 2nd half of March-1st week of April
Weaving through the early mists that still
shroud the highlands just before dawn, an impressive
procession of huge, colorful wooden crosses progresses down
the valley of Porcón to celebrate the triumphal entry of
Christ into Jerusalem.
Unlike other Easter Week celebrations, the
one in this fun-loving village located half an hour by road
from the city of Cajamarca does not dwell on the death of
Christ. On the main day of the festival, Palm Sunday, four
different ceremonies are held: the crowning of the crosses,
the greeting of the Lord at the home of the mayordomo (the
person in charge of organizing the festivities), the various
responses sung in Quechua and Latin, and finally the
procession to the plantation chapel.
The crosses are decorated with round and oval-shaped mirrors
symbolizing the souls of the dead, as well as figures
representing the Virgin Mary, the Heart of Jesus and a
wealth of symmetrically placed patron saints forming a huge
rhomboid. The locals hang metal bells from the corners to
announce the arrival of the crosses to the community. During
the imposing procession of the crosses, angels dressed out
in turquoise, yellow and pink, stride ahead, hanging onto
the señorca, the donkey carrying the Lord of the Palms.
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Easter Week
Location: Ayacucho
Date: 2nd half of March-1st week of April
Easter week represents the peak of
religious sentiment for the people of the Andes. The
departmental capital of Ayacucho, San Cristóbal de Huamanga,
located in the central Andes at an altitude of 2,761 meters
above sea level, celebrates one of the most intense
portrayals of the passion, death and resurrection of Christ.
The week starts out with the entry of Jesus into the city
riding on a donkey. On Wednesday, the images of the Virgin
Mary and Saint John are paraded in fervent processions
through streets carpeted with flower petals until they meet
up with the litter bearing the image of Christ, whom they
"greet" in the main square. On the evening of Holy Friday,
the lights of the city wink out to give way to the Christ of
Calvary.
The image sets out from the Monastery of
Santa Clara in a procession through the streets on a litter
strewn with white roses, followed by the grieving Virgin
Mary and lines of men and women strictly dressed in mourning
bearing lit candles. The litter, which features thousands of
white candles, is simply magnificent.
The litter is then accompanied with prayers and songs
throughout the night until the three-hour sermon is
delivered on Saturday. After days of grieving, Resurrection
Sunday takes on a festive air, Christ is resurrected and
appears once more on his litter and is carried through the
streets. |
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Lord of the Earthquakes
Location:
Cusco
Date: 2nd half of March-1st week of April
Ever since 1,650, when the faithful claim
that an oil painting of Christ on the Cross held off a
devastating earthquake that was rattling the city of Cuzco,
the locals have been rendering homage to the image of
Taitacha Temblores, the Lord of the Earthquakes. The
celebration is held on Easter Monday against the backdrop of
Easter Week in the city of Cuzco.
This celebration is of particular interest because it allows
onlookers to get a glimpse of the fusion of Andean religions
and Christianity. The Cuzco Cathedral, where the image is
kept, is built on the foundations of the ancient temple
dedicated to the pagan god Apulla Tikse Wiracocha.
The image of the Lord of Earthquakes is borne aloft in a
procession through the streets of the city just as the Incas
used to parade the mummies of their chieftains, high priests
and supreme rulers. In the end, the dominating part of the
celebration involves the ñucchu flower (salvia esplendes),
used as an offering to the ancient gods Kon and Wiracocha.
The same flower today is used to weave a
crown for the Lord of the Earthquakes. This crimson colored
flower, whose petals are scattered by the faithful over the
venerated image, symbolizes the blood of Christ.
The image used today was donated by King Charles V, and
despite centuries of smoke from the candles and incense, no
one has dared to restore the blackened painting, that has
given the Christ a somber aspect and a dark countenance.
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Peruvian Paso Horse Festival
Location: Pachacámac (Lima)
Date: April 15-20
The Spanish horse, bred with the Arab
stallion and reared in a desert environment, which formed
its gait, gave rise to the Peruvian Paso horse.
For 300 years, the blood of this new breed was improved upon
until the Paso horse developed the characteristics that have
made it one of the world's most beautiful and elegant
breeds. Breeders, chalán riders and artisans, over the
years, have worked on the art of ambladura -the synchronized
gait of the fore and hindlegs- which in turn gave rise to
the elegant steps and dress of the marinera. The entire
costume comprises the saddle and trimmings and the splendid
outfit of the chalán himself (white shirt and trousers,
wide-brimmed straw hat, vicuña wool poncho, handkerchief,
boots and spurs).
This tradition, which has been exported
all over the world, has been spurred on by a number of
competitions both along the Peruvian coast as well as in the
highlands.
The most important competition, however, is the National El
Paso Horse Competition held every year at the Mamacona
stables near Pachacámac, located 30 km south of Lima.
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Virgin of Chapi
Location:
Chapi (Arequipa)
Date: May 1
Every year, thousands of pilgrims cross
the desert from the city of Arequipa to the sanctuary of
Chapi to worship the image of the Virgin of Purification,
today known as the Virgen de Chapi.
In 1,790, the parish priest of Pocsi, Juan de Dios José
Tamayo, tried to move the small image to another community
and failed, reportedly because the statue suddenly became
too heavy to move.
News of the miracle spread like wildfire, and today the
faithful take around 15 hours to walk 45 km through the
night, leaning on rustic walking staffs to reach the
deserted spot located at 2,420 meters above sea level.
Before the first stop, the pilgrims gather
stones of varying sizes which they will leave at Tres Cruces
next to the road, forming the so-called apachetas which
symbolize the weariness and sins that the faithful leave
behind them.
The same thing occurs at Alto de Hornilla and then at Siete
Toldos, 15 km from the spot, with countless candles
flickering in the night. The following day, in Chapi, the
virgin is borne aloft in a procession over carpets of flower
petals. At night, next to the sanctuary, pilgrims set off
fireworks and sell foodstuffs. |
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Lord of Muruhuay
Location:
Acobamba (Junín)
Date: May 3
Left to their fate by officials of the
vice-regency, those sick with smallpox (muru: smallpox, huay:
house) were allegedly healed by an image of Christ that took
shape on a stone slab at the foot of Mount Shalacoto (2,959
meters above sea level), and has remained there ever since.
This spot, located in the district of Acobamba, 12 km from
the town of Tarma in the department of Junín, is Peru's
foremost pilgrimage center. The celebration of this image
abounds in pre-Hispanic rites dominated by elements such as
water, earth and stone. Today, the worship rituals begin the
night before with a fireworks display. On the main day,
after a Mass held in Quechua, the devout deposit a "letter
to God".
Then everyone returns to Tarma in a procession headed by the
mayordomo (the organizer of the festivities), his wife and
troupes of dancers including the caracolillos and negritos,
who compete in dances such as the abrecalle and the chutos.
After the dancing, everyone settles down
to lunch featuring typical Andean dishes such as fried
guinea pig served with peanuts and beans. Over the following
days, the locals dance the famous chonguinada in the streets
of Acobamba, that have been carpeted in flower petals.
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Celebration of the Crosses
Location: Lima,
Apurímac, Ayacucho, Junín, Ica, Cusco
Date: May 3
This festival, which is widespread in the
highlands, is organized by the members of each community who
decorate their respective crosses and prepare then for the
procession to neighboring churches.
The celebration is linked to giving thanks for bountiful
harvests, a custom maintained by peasant farmers since the
pre-Hispanic era. The festival often features folk music
shows involving danzantes de tijeras (scissors dancers). In
ancient times, the danzaq or scissors dancers would perform
their daring feats on top of the church belltowers.
Even today, the dancers strive to outdo each other,
performing extraordinary feats of derring-do |
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Qoyllur Rit'i
Ubication.
Quispicanchis (Cuzco)
Date: May (1st week)
Each year the people of the district of
Ocongate (Quispicanchis) perform a ritual whose external
aspect appears to be the image of Christ, but whose real
objective is to bring Man closer to Nature.
The ritual, associated with the fertility
of the land and the worship of Apus, the spirits of the
mountains, forms part of the greatest festival of native
Indian nations in the hemisphere: Qoyllur Rit'i. The main
ceremony is held at the foot of Mount Ausangate, at 4,700
meters, where temperatures often plunge below freezing.
The ritual brings thousands of pilgrims,
including shepherds, traders and the merely curious who
gather at the shrine at Sinakara. Popular belief has it that
the infant Christ, dressed as a shepherd, appeared to a
young highland Indian boy, Marianito Mayta, and they quickly
became friends. When Mayta's parents found them dressed in
rich tunics, they informed the local parish priest, Pedro de
Landa, who attempted in vain to capture the infant Christ
who had disappeared and left behind only a stone. Marianito
died immediately, and the image of the Lord of Qoyllur Rit'i
appeared on the stone.
Today, the festival starts off with the day of the Holy
Trinity, when more than 10,000 pilgrims climb to the
snowline, accompanied by all sorts of dancers in full
costume (chauchos, qollas, pabluchas or ukukus) portray
various mythical characters. The ukukus, or bears, are the
guardians of the Lord and the Apu mountain spirits and
apachetas, stone cairns built along the way by pilgrims to
atone for their sins. The ukukus maintain order during
religious ceremonies. A group of hefty queros, members of
what is probably Peru's purest Quechua community, dress up
as pabluchas and set out for the mountaintop, at 6,362
meters in search of the Snow Star which is reputedly buried
within the mountain.
On their way back down to their
communities, they haul massive blocks of ice on their backs
for the symbolic irrigation of their lands with holy water
from the Ausangate. |
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Inti Raymi Festival
Location:
Cusco
Date: June 24
The Winter Solstice in the southern
hemisphere and the local harvests are the driving force
behind the greatest, most majestic pre-Hispanic ceremony to
render homage to the sun.
Today, the Inti Raymi festival evokes the splendid Inca
ritual of yore, being carefully scripted by Cusco
professors, archaeologists and historians. The central event
is acted out on the esplanade below the imposing fortress of
Sacsayhuamán, 2 km outside the city of Cusco, easily reached
by car or on foot. There, step by step, thousands of actors
enact a long ceremony giving thanks to the sun god, Inti.
The Inca ruler is borne on a royal litter from the
Koricancha, or Temple of the Sun to the Huacaypata, the
city's main square, where he commands the local authorities
to govern fairly. Then all the participants set out for
Sacsayhuamán, where the ceremony calls for the sacrifice of
two llamas, one black and one white.
The llamas' entrails and fat are handed to
a pair of high priests: the first, the Callpa Ricuy,
examines the intestines to predict what sort of year lies
ahead; while the second priest, the Wupariruj, makes his
predictions based on the smoke that wafts up from the
burning fat.
The high priests' predictions are then interpreted by the
Willac Umo, the lord high priest, who bears the news to the
Inca. Finally, at sunset, the Inca orders all to withdraw
from the site, and the entire city breaks out into a
festivities that will rage for several days. |
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Celebration of San Juan
Location: Cusco,
Loreto, San Martín, Ucayali
Date: June 24
In the jungle, Saint John the Baptist has
taken on a major symbolic significance because of the
importance of water as a vital element in the entire Amazon
region. This is why June 24 (St. John's the Baptist's day)
is the most important date on the festival calendar in the
entire Peruvian jungle.
The northeastern city of Iquitos hosts a variety of
festivals and public events: fiestas with typical local
bands where cooks dish up some of the regional cuisine,
featuring tacacho (baked banana) and juanes (rice pastries),
named after the patron saint, San Juan Bautista. This
carnival atmosphere, redolent with the warmth of the local
hospitality, has given rise to the myth of a special
sensuality to be found in Loreto.
It is widely held that the best
aphrodisiacs are concocted in Iquitos, potions blended from
fruits and herbs steeped in sugarcane alcohol, with strange
and suggestive names. The best-known is without a doubt the
chuchuhuasi, fermented from a local root. In the highlands,
the festival is also linked to the concept of fertility, but
here the main theme is livestock, something that is easily
associated with the image of Saint John as the pastor of
souls.
On this day, livestock are counted and branded, and llamas
are sometimes even the object of prayer. In Cusco, where
peasant farmers used to bring their richly decorated sheep
to Mass, the tradition has been shifted to June 25, yielding
to Inti Raymi. |
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San Pedro and San Pablo
Location:
Chorrillos and Lurín (Lima), San José (Lambayeque)
Date: June 29
Together with the communal task of
dredging irrigation ditches, highland communities celebrate
a veritable water festival.
On the coast, fishing communities have chosen Saint Peter as
their patron saint, and render him homage in Lima's fishing
districts of Chorrillos and Lurín, as well as in San José,
located 13 km north of the city of Chiclayo. The ceremony is
held by the mouth of the Lambayeque River, where legend has
it the founding god Naylamp landed on Peruvian shores. The
figure of the saint is borne aloft amidst burning incense,
prayers and hymns down to the sea where it boards a fishing
launch and is taken around the bay to bless the waters in
the hope of a good fishing season |
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Corpus Christi
Location:
Cusco
Date: June (Movable feast)
The festival of Corpus Christi has been
celebrated all over Peru since colonial times, but reaches a
high point in Cuzco.
Fifteen saints and virgins from various districts are borne
in a procession to the Cathedral where they "greet" the body
of Christ embodied in the Sacred Host, kept in a fabulous
gold goblet weighing 26 kilos and standing 1.2 meters high.
Sixty days after Easter Sunday, the members of each nearby
church bear their patron saint in a procession to the chimes
of the María Angola, Peru's largest church bell, forged in a
copper-gold alloy in the sixteenth century by local artisan
Diego Arias de Cerda.
At night everyone gathers together, for an
overnight vigil, where typical dishes such as chiriuchu
(spicy guinea pig), beer, chicha and cornbread are served.
At dawn the procession sets off around the main square,
bearing the images of five virgins clad in richly
embroidered tunics, plus the images of four saints:
Sebastian, Blas, Joseph and the Apostle Santiago (Saint
James) mounted on a beautiful white horse.
Then the saints enter the Cathedral to
receive homage, time after which representatives and
authorities from various communities of Cuzco meet in the
main square to discuss local affairs. Finally, the
delegations return to the churches amidst hymns and prayers |
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Independence Day
Location: All over Peru
Date: July 28-29
Peruvians throw parties and hold patriotic celebrations to
remember the Declaration of Peru's Independence (,821) by
José de San Martín. Across Peru, even in remote communities,
homes fly the Peruvian flag from the start of July.
On the night of July 27, Peruvians often stage serenatas to
the strains of folk and Creole music in plazas and public
parks. Dawn on July 28 is greeted with a salvo of 21
cannons, to herald the ceremony of raising the flag. On the
following day, before the famous military parade is held in
downtown Lima, the Te Deum ceremony, attended by the
president, is celebrated in the Lima Cathedral.
In various parts of the country, Peruvians also hold
agricultural and livestock fairs (Cajamarca, Piura, Monsefú)
together with three festivals that are the soul of Creole
culture: cockfighting, bullfighting and Peruvian paso horse
exhibitions. |
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Santa Rosa de Lima Festival
Location: City of Lima and Quives (Lima),
Ocopa (Junín) and Arequipa
Date: August 30
Saint Rose of Lima (Santa Rosa de Lima) was the name given
to a seventeenth-century inhabitant of Lima. Isabel Flores
de Oliva felt a great religious vocation and dedicated
herself to being a laywoman, without belonging to any
religious order in particular.
She was to spend her life caring for the sick and her
penitence undertaken to resist sin, as well as her good
nature earned her fame even while she was alive.
Veneration of her figure spread not only in Peru but also to
the Philippines. Her shrine, located in downtown Lima, is
constantly visited by pilgrims in search of a miracle,
especially those seeking to cure an illness.
On August 30, pilgrims often cast letters detailing their
needs into the wishing well where Saint Rose dropped the key
from her cilice. Others visit the hermitage that the saint
herself built. Saint Rose is the patron saint of Peru.
Although her festival is celebrated across the country, it
has a special Quechua emphasis in the town of Santa Rosa de
Quives, in the highlands of the department of Lima |
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Lord Cautivo of Ayabaca
Location: Ayabaca (Piura)
Date: October (Second week)
Every year, thousands of the faithful from various parts of
northern Peru and even Ecuador set out on a pilgrimage to
Ayabaca, a town 211 km northeast of the northern coastal
city of Piura.
On the main day of the festival, a procession of the image
of the Captive Christ (Señor Cautivo de Ayabaca) through the
town streets, which have been previously decorated with
carpets of flower petals. Before the Spanish Conquest,
peasants in the same spot placed offerings at the temples of
Aypate and La Huaca.
The devout have a firm belief in the miracles that the image
is said to have performed in healing the sick. Its origin
dates back to 1 751, when a Spanish priest had the image
carved, featuring a disconcerting expression, a blend of
sweetness and mystery |
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International Spring Festival
Location: Trujillo (La Libertad)
Date: September (Final week)
The festival of spring is celebrated all
over Peru, with especially colorful variants in the jungle.
However Trujillo, capital of the department of La Libertad,
has forged a particular reputation for holding the festival
of greatest splendor.
The festival is intimately linked to the marinera norteña,
which is always danced by a couple, waving a handkerchief in
the air to keep time. The festival features various
tournaments demonstrating the regional variations of this
dance.
During the week-long festival, streets and homes fill with
decorations, floats are paraded through the city, and
troupes of schoolchildren dance through the streets, led by
the beauty queen of the spring pageant. The beauty queen is
always flanked by drum majorettes who travel here from all
over the world to show off their skills |
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Lord of Miracles
Location: Lima
Date: October 18-28
This procession, which gathers together the largest number
of believers in South America, dates back to colonial times,
when a slave, brought over from Angola, drew the image of a
black Christ on the walls of a wretched hut in the
plantation of Pachacamilla, near Lima. The image stayed on
the wall despite several attempts to erase it. As a result
of this event, worship of the image rose to new heights,
until it became what is today the most widely venerated
image in the city of Lima. The heart of the celebration is
one of the largest processions to take place every year in
the Americas, where tens of thousands of the faithful dress
in purple tunics, singing hymns and praying as they
accompany the image.
The litter which bears the painting weighs two tons and is
borne on the shoulders of believers who set out on the
traditional 24-hour procession from the church of Las
Nazarenas, crossing downtown Lima until it reaches the
church of La Merced in Barrios Altos. Around this time of
year, the streets fill with vendors of a wide variety of
typical dishes and sweets, such as the famous Turrón de Doña
Pepa.
In October to commemorate the Lord of Miracles (Señor de los
Milagros), Lima hosts the well-known bullfight season which
carries the same name and is held in the centuries-old Plaza
de Acho bullring. The season features some major
bullfighters (toreros) from Spain and Latin America |
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All Saints Day
Location: All over Peru
Date: November 1-2
On these days, which are dedicated to the memory of the
dead, Peruvians tend to attend Mass and then in coastal
communities, head to the cemetery, bringing flowers and in
the highlands, food to share symbolically with the souls of
the dead.
The worship of the dead was a common and respected custom
during pre-Hispanic times in Peru, and part of that
tradition, combined with Christian elements, still lives on
today. In the village of La Arena, in Piura, the locals head
for the main square in the morning bringing their children
dressed in their Sunday best. Also attending are relatives
who have lost a very young child or niece or nephew. When
these people meet a child who looks like the deceased, they
give him or her small breadrolls, candied sweet potato or
coconut and other sweets wrapped in finely-decorated bags,
which are called "angels".
At night, the relatives hold a candlelight vigil in the
cemetery until dawn on November 2. In Arequipa and Junín the
bags of "angels" are replaced by breadrolls in the shape of
babies, called t'anta wawas. |
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Lord of Luren
Location: Ica
Date: October (3rd week)
The origin of the devotion for the crucified Christ of Luren
(Señor de Luren), patron of the city of Ica (300 km south of
Lima), dates back to 1 570, when the image was mysteriously
lost in the desert during a trip from Lima to Ica, before
reappearing in a desolate outpost called Luren. Later,
Nicolás de Ribera the Elder, Lima's first mayor, had a small
church built in this spot as well as a hospital for highland
Indians.
Today, the modern church, built in a Romanticist style,
houses the carved wooden image of the dying Christ, as well
as those of the Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalene.
On the main day of the festival, Sunday, the image is borne
aloft in a procession through the city from nightfall until
dawn the following day |
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Andean Christmas
Location: All over Peru
Date: December 24-25
The rural context of the arrival of the infant Christ
allowed early Peruvians to identify immediately with the
festivity, highlighted by artisan creativity, a sense of
aesthetics and the religious devotion of Andean settlers.
Andean Christmas began taking on characteristics of its own
by adding elements from each region.
These elements stand out for the extreme care with which
highlanders put together Nativity scenes in churches and
homes, perform dances and plays, cook typical dishes and
produce a wide range of handicrafts such as Nativity scenes
in Huamanga stone, retablos featuring images related to
Christmas and pottery or carved gourds called mates
burilados decorated with Yuletide scenes.
In most Andean communities, the festival continues until la
Bajada de los Reyes (the arrival of the three wise men),
January 6, when traditionally people exchange gifts. |
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Santuranticuy Fair
Location: Cusco
Date: December 24
The origin of this fair dates back to the Vice-regency, and
today has become one of the largest arts and crafts fairs in
Peru. It is held in the main square of Cusco, where artisans
lay out blankets on the sidewalks, as is the custom in
traditional Andean fairs.
Santuranticuy, which means "saints for sale", is a
provisional market where image carvers and artisans sell a
wide variety of figurines to liven up Christmas and fit out
the Nativity scenes that are set up in homes and parish
churches.
The fair also sells a variety of ceramic objects brought
from Pucará and Quinua. Here one can find all sorts of arts
and crafts, such as wooden carvings, pottery and the boxed
scenes called retablos.
At night, street vendors sell a traditional hot and sweet
rum punch called ponche, to warm up chilly visitors. |
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Virgin del Carmen de Chincha Festival
Location: El Guayabo and El Carmen (Chincha,
Ica)
Date: December 27
The Virgen del Carmen is the most widely venerated image in
Peru after the Lord of Miracles.
Its worship dates back to colonial times when friars from
the Carmeline Order arrived. In various communities in Ica
(300 km south of Lima) as well as the areas of El Carmen and
El Guayabo in Chincha (200 km south of Lima), home to most
of Peru's Afro-Peruvian population, the locals render a
special homage to the virgin at the end of every year.
What is unique about this festival is that here it is called
La Peoncita (the little peon) for its link with teenagers
who perform the dances called los negritos and las pallitas,
in honor of the Virgin. |
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Pachamama Offerings
Particularly in the Andean world,
pre-Colombian religious fervor has survived until today in
age-old rites that link Man to Nature, where the earth
enjoys huge symbolic importance.
The Pachamama or Earth goddess, dwells in the Urkhupacha,
the Underworld, and provides her fruits to feed Man. Thus,
within the reciprocal nature of the Andes, in August
villagers make offerings called pagapus.
These offerings can include coca leaves, unwrought silver,
chicha, wine and jungle seeds called huayruro believed to
have magical powers. These offerings are made to the apu,
the spirits of their ancestors who dwell within the
mountains.
The coca leaf, a sacred plant which serves to mediate
between the inner world (the Apu and the Pachamama) and the
outer world (that of Man) is found in countless mestizo
religious celebrations in communities in the country's
interior and even urban centers. Spread over a blanket on
the ground, coca leaves are then "read" to predict the
future |
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